E-Pipe Mechanical Mod (Smoktech clone)

Here is my review of the E-Pipe Mechanical Mod (SmokTech clone) that I purchased from Fasttech for $19.04 USD

Specifications from Fasttech’s page:

PRODUCT TYPE:  Mechanical Mods
COLOR:  SilverMATERIAL:  Chromed Brass
CONNECTION THREADING:  510
TELESCOPING MOD:  No
VARIABLE VOLTAGE (VV):  No
VARIABLE WATTAGE (VW):  No
MAXIMUM SUPPORTED BATTERY LENGTH:  36 mm

DIMENSIONS
DEPTH:  24 mm
HEIGHT:  54 mm
WIDTH:  39 mm
PRODUCT WEIGHT:  84 g

Last night I came home to find my replacement Smoktech e-Pipe clone from Fasttech had arrived. The first one I had was great until the button spring overheated and collapsed.  Each time I would stretch it back out it would overheat and collapse again.  It had to have had a short in it somewhere rendering it unusable.  I RMA’d the e-pipe mod and FT sent a replacement.  This new one is much nicer than the original one I received and I can only guess that they have a new supplier.  This new one I received is so much nicer that I thought I had received the real deal.  At $19.04 it’s an absolute steal and a must own!

This new one seems to have a stiffer spring than the original, as I recall it, and also takes the cells properly without having to invert them.  The first one I had would fire as soon as you connected the base of the mod.  This is because the cell button top would touch the switch base in the mod.  To get around this you could just invert the battery and insert the negative end first instead of the usual positive end first.  The replacement I received accepts the cell the proper way with plenty of room for the cell button and no firing until you want it to.  Huzzah!

The result of the new one?  I love it even more than I did the first one (before it shorted) and am super happy that I got a replacement instead of getting store credit.  What an awesome little piece of kit this is!  Can be super small when you want a concealed vape or super long and classy if you want a more traditional pipe look.

Here is the E-Pipe with a Nimbus atty on it.  Nice and compact.

Here we have it with an generic RDA atty.  Even smaller.

Here is the E-Pipe in all it’s glory looking oh so sophisticated and gentlemanly with an iClear 16 atty, CE-to-510 drip tip convertor, and a 60mm bent SS drip tip.

Base E-Pipe as received.  Measurements included in the pic.

Chromed plated brass body polished to a gleam.  Nice knurling on the top and base caps for easy unscrewing.  Vent hole on the base.

Firing button is unlockable but has a fairly stiff spring so unintended firing is not much of a worry.  Very smooth travel of only about 2mm.

Standard 510 connection has taken every atty I’ve tried on it and all thread on with no issues.  The outer tube is notched for unimpeded airflow that some atomisers require.  I use an eGo to 510 connection adapter to use my iClear 16 and CE* atomisers.

A look into the battery chamber.  A black Delrin piece isolates the cell from the firing button contact.

It’s very hard to see in the pic but there is a full “cloth” lining in the battery tube.  This is something the clone e-pipe I first received did not have.  This cloned SmokTech E-Pipe is so much nicer than the clone I had before.

All threads on top cap and base are nicely machined and thread very smoothly.  The cathode spring is stout and prevents any battery rattle from detracting from the solid feel of the pipe when fully assembled and ready for use.

Under the top cap is another delrin insulator, this one in white, holding the firing button and spring into place.

Here is my E-Pipe with a KWX10 clearo mounted.

Very compact and feels great in the hand!

Easy and comfortable access to the firing button.

Conclusion:

If you are looking for a compact, easy to pocket, vape and want something a little outside the usual round tube then the SmokTech E-Pipe clone is the perfect addition to your collection.  Build quality is much improved over the first one I received a couple months ago.  I can now recommend it to people without any reservations.  In my first impressions post when I got it a while back I stated it should be avoided.  Not the case with the replacement I’ve received and is currently shipping out.  I don’t own an authentic SmokTech E-Pipe but I’ve compared the pictures of the real deal to the clone version in my hand and the only difference I can tell internally and out is the authentic E-Pipe has a brass colored base spring and the clone I have is silver colored.  This is one of the best $19 I’ve ever spent and I don’t think you will regret it either as long as you receive the same version I got.

7 thoughts on “E-Pipe Mechanical Mod (Smoktech clone)

  1. Pingback: E-Pipe Mechanical Mod (SmokTech clone) | Johnny Mac Reviews

    • Hey, VFWH! To be honest I haven’t touched it since I got my Hammer mod. Personally I’d never use anything lower than 1.5ohms on it though. 1.2 ohms is right on the edge for an 18350 and 0.9 ohm is downright scary IMO. I don’t think that the atomizer is what caused my short though. I can’t help but think that it was something else.

      The Hammer clones have come down in price so much that some are even cheaper than this little e-pipe mod and positively destroy it in looks and performance. Only the top cap on the Hammer clones are suspect. Replace them with a cap from an Astro or a ChiYou/King and you are off to the races with a fantastic mod. 😉

      Johnny

      • Hi Johnny,

        Right. Well I have a Hammer clone too, I’m very happy with it, but I liked the lightness and small form factor of the smoktech.

        I find 1.5+ ohm coils on 18350s to deliver too weak a vape.

        I can put low ohm coils on the Hammer without problems, it’s a real mech. I even can put a kick in there if I want. But on an 18350, battery life is pretty short. Using an 18650 makes it a great vape, but you lose the “real pipe” feel. So I use it as a social device in 18350 when I go to a party or something, and a stack of batteries in my bag which I change every 3 hours or so.

        I was expecting to be able to do the same, with the same coils, with the smoktech, but the mere presence of a wire and some plastic coatings and such makes that impossible, as it’s the wire that fries and shorts. I now understand what people mean when they say that a mech with a wire is not a mech.

        There’s no wire on the Hammer.

        Anyway, that’s my two cents on this topic.

        Happy vaping.

      • You can go down to 0.4 ohm on an 18350 with 10A limit, giving 40W@ 4V 🙂
        I reguarly(?) use an 18350 in my magneto III and my preferred build in the goblin mini ohms out to about 0.45.
        No problems, no heat or anything like that 😉

      • Sorry if I reply in the wrong comment but there are no “reply” options under every comment 🙂

        No, I have only just ordered the pipe, I was merely commenting on the capabilities of the battery itself.
        Should mine fail as yours have, I will attempt:
        Nr.1, replacing the wire connected to the spring.
        Nr.2, replacing the spring itself as well as the wire.
        I can tell from looking at pictures that the wire is VERY thin, and from comments, that the spring is a bottleneck.
        I will test it out for a while when I get it, and then after some use, I will stresstest the circuit, up to about 10-12A, and update if I make any “discoveries” 😉
        Just ordered today, and I live in norway, so it might be a while..

  2. Hi JohnnyMac,

    I’ve now had one clone and one apparently authentic epipe fry on me the same way as you had (saw your coms on the vaping forum).

    I also really like the form factor or this mod, it’s really cool. But the first one that fried had a 0,9 ohm coil and the other a 1,2 ohm coil in there.

    I’d liek to know: how have you been finding this device since it got replaced, and what resistance coils do you put on there?

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