Flash E-Vapor v2 RDA/RBA Atomizer

Flash E-Vapor v2 RDA/RBA Atomizer

* Flash E-Vapor v2 was provided for review by FocalEcig/Wallbuys
Specifications from FocalEcig.com
Product Type:                  Dripping Atomizer
Model:                               V2 Styled
                          Silver (Stainless Steel)
Coil Rebuildable:             
Coil Replaceable:             
Connection Threading:   
Packing List:                     
11 x Atomizer
Price:                           $22.46 (free world wide shipping)
When Doris from FocalEcig asked me if I would like to review another atomizer I decided to go the road least travelled and test out the Flash E-Vapor V2.  This atomizer has always piqued my interest but seemed to not have the following or excitement of other RBA atomizers like the Kayfun, Ithaca, or Taifun.  What little I did find in my researching was extremely positive.  Let me tell you right off, this atomizer kicks ass, and the only reason I can find for it’s lack of popularity is its industrial look and knurling.  Hey, I’m originally a flashlight guy and if there’s one thing I like it’s good knurling and this atty has it!  If people would only look past it’s cosmetic appearance and height they would find an atomizer with huge capacity, no leaking, great flavor and loads of vapor.  It’s a winner, folks but not the easiest to build.  Not all that hard to get right the first time out but slightly more involved than most atomizers in it’s class.  Let’s take a quick look at what I feel are it’s pros and cons.
  • Excellent machining.  All parts fit tight, threading is wonderful, and knurling is great.
  • Easy to build perfectly every time if you just build it the way it was designed to be built.
  • No leaking
  • No dry hits
  • Adjustable air flow via interchangeable “jets” (two sizes included)
  • Huge capacity – 5.5ml
  • Coil adjustable without having to drain the tank
  • Great flavor!
  • Lots of vapor, especially with “jet” removed (super lung hits!)
  • No whistling at all when using the jets.  No whistling without them either but it’s not as silent as it is with the jets in place.
  • Fairly tall at 65mm
  • Should include a small swatch of stainless steel mesh for proper build.
  • A couple small spots with scratches or rough edges
The original Flash E-Vapor is a high-end atomizer designed, engineered, and handmade by Artur Schwartz in Germany.  This clone is a 1:1 copy of his wonderful creation in nearly every possible way.  While the original sells for a very reasonable $148 USD considering each is handmade work of art and engineering, let’s have a closer look at what $22 can gets you.
The Flash E-Vapor V2 arrived in a simple white box with the atomizer and Ziploc baggie of accessories inside a larger Ziploc bag.
The included accessories are spare post screws, a larger air jet, and several O-rings for every conceivable location on the atomizer.
Here you can see an exploded view of the Flash.  All sections but one thread together perfectly with only the base being a press fit to the upper assembly.  It is sealed with two O-rings and kept from turning by a notch the upper assembly fits into.  This is to ensure that the juice wicks from the upper tank are always perfectly positioned directly above the coil wicking.
The intake jet threads into the chamber.  There are two jets included with the Flash.  A smaller one (pre-installed at the factory) and a slightly larger one included in the accessory bag.  For a real lung hitting draw you can remove the jet completely.  What you should have for a proper build is two small pieces of stainless steel mesh (7mm x 14mm) for encasing the wick where it passes through the base of the tank to the combustion chamber.  Unfortunately they are not included but if this is not your first atomizer there is a good chance that you, like me, have a bit of mesh laying about in your vaping odds and ends.  I will show you how to use them shortly when I show you the proper way to build the Flash.  Speaking of build..let’s have a go at it, shall we?
After a good cleaning in hot soapy water and a thorough rinse and dry, gather up your disassembled Flash pieces.  Choice of Kanthal wire is up to you depending on your personal preference but the flash is designed for use of 3mm silica wicking.  I just got some braided silica yesterday that I’m going to use in this build.  The previous build I did with it used regular twisted silica wick.  Either work well.  While it’s really not impossible to use another wicking material such as cotton, it can be difficult to get the proper feed of juice from the tank down to the coil wicking.  Artur, the designer, took great pains to come up with a consistent method and I can’t argue with his results.  That in mind,  I’ll show you the “proper” way.  If you want to experiment on your own then have it.  Just don’t blame the Flash if you have trouble. ;)
The tank consists of the top section and chimney.
The wide, threaded end of the chimney threads into the tank.  The knurled wheeled at the lower end of the chimney is so you can easily remove/attach the chimney to the tank for cleaning.
The upper end of the chimney contains the 510 connection for the drip tip.
Here you can see the threading at the top of the tank into which the chimney threads.
Here we have threaded the chimney into the tank.
Once the chimney is in place the drip tip presses in snugly.
Here is where we use the 3mm silica wicking.  I’ve folded it this way for a good reason and will show you why shortly.  I made a 4/5 wrap coil around the wicking using 28ga kanthal.
Once the wick is made we can attach it to the posts.  There are two tricks to this.  The first trick is to not make the coil legs too close to the posts.  This is because once we’ve attached the legs to the posts we will fold the coil up and over the posts so the wicking lays on top of the posts.  The second trick is to grip the positive post with needle nose pliers to keep it from spinning when you tighten the screw.  The reason for this is the post is pressed into a delrin insulator to keep it from shorting on the base and when tightening the screw the post can twist inside the insulator.  This can be bad because the connection for the positive current from the center pin to the post is via a wire attached to both via a soldered joint.  Allow the positive post to spin too much and you can break the wire or the solder joint inside the base.
With the coil legs tightened to the posts we can now fold the coil up and over the posts so the wicking covers the post screws.  The wicking from the tank will be touching this wicking and feeding the juice to the coil.  No wicking above the screws/posts, no juice to your coil.
Next you will trim the looped ends flush with the side of the base.  The longer ends we don’t trim off because we will tuck those around and onto the base in order to wick up and juice that happens to build up on the bottom of the well.
Before we go any further lets spin the base onto our mod and give it a test fire to make sure the coil burns right.  Right off the bat my coil fired perfectly with no adjustment needed.  w00t!
You can see here how we have the two short legs on either side of the coil covering the posts with a longer leg on each side looping around and into the base juice well.  I fluffed up the short ends a bit to make a consistent base for the juice wicks from the tank to sit on.
Now we’ll juice up the wick for another test fire and to prepare it for final assembly.
Working great.  Now we can set the base aside for a few minutes while we prep the tank wicking.
In the picture above you can easily see the small tang at the base of the combustion chamber that aligns the coil wicking with the tank wicking.  You can also see where the intake jet points directly onto the coil.
Here is a view of the top of the combustion chamber which is also the base of the tank.  The thickness of the top here is as thick as the threading which is roughly 6-7mm.  The chimney base sits into the center hole and the tank wicking passes through the two smaller holes.
With the parts side-by-side you can see that the coil wicking will be just below the holes for the tank wick.  When they are assembled, the tank wicking will be in direct contact with the coil wicking and will feed right to the coil.
Remember those two 7mm*14mm pieces of mesh I suggested in the beginning?  Here is where they come into play and I do highly recommend you don’t forego them as the Flash is designed to use them.  They also help the juice wick properly from the tank without creating a vacuum in the tank.  No dry hits and no flooding!
Remember the wick loops you trimmed earlier?  That should leave you with a couple pieces of 3mm wick just a bit longer than we need for the tank wicking.  Roll the mesh loosely until it will fit into the wick holes top o f the combustion chamber.  Then open it and insert a piece of wick into each then roll it back up so it looks like the picture above.
Insert the mesh sleeved wicking into each of the holes.  It should fit snugly into the holes.  If you need to, work the wicking a bit to ensure it fills the mesh sleeve.  Press the mesh down until it is flush with the top of the combustion chamber/tank base.
Flip the combustion chamber over so you can see the wick sticking down into the chamber.  Adjust the wick so there is roughly 1/8″ of wick sticking into the chamber.
From the top your mesh should be about flush with the top.  Wet the wick with your juice and you will see it wick down through the cap piece.  Wet it enough so it wicks all the way down to the bottom of the wick where it will be touching the coil wick when assembled.  Using your clippers, cut the wick flush with the mesh and tank base.
Once trimmed it should look like this on the top and have the 1/8″ extending into the chamber from below.  Now we are ready to place the combustion chamber onto the base.
Align the tank on the combustion chamber with the notch in the base and, without twisting, press the piece onto the base until the two parts are completely joined.  You will notice that your wick will have pushed up a bit due to it contacting the coil wicking.  Using a finger nail or tweezers tip, press the mesh sleeve down so it is flush with the top cap.
One last trimming of the wick so it is flush with what will be the base of the tank and you will end up with something like the picture above.
Now we are ready to do the final assembly of the tank before filling it with your e-juice.  Take the shirt section with the wide knurling and thread it onto the main tank section.
With those pieces joined together the base of the chimney will be roughly even with the bottom edge of the tank.  You will notice a small ledge inside the tank wall that is almost even with the chimney thumb wheel.  Fill the tank with fluid no higher than that outer ledge as shown in my picture above.
With the tank still upside down, thread the lower section onto the tank until the Flash is fully assembled.
Now your Flash E-Vapor is ready for vaping.  Prepare to be impressed with this ugly duckling!
Let the vapor flow!!  Remember, keep calm and vape on. ;)  This is one you should definitely enjoy!
~ Johnny

2 thoughts on “Flash E-Vapor v2 RDA/RBA Atomizer

  1. Pingback: Johnny Mac Reviews

  2. Outstanding detailed review. Pics are useful/clear/crisp for a persons viewing. Step by step instructions for the beginner and advanced vapor.
    VAPE ON MYFRIENDS/Vaping for 7 1/2 years

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